Rocks and Reefs
Fly fishing in a marine wonderland.

by Dan Blanton

The marine environment has always been a wonderland to me because of its incredible diversity; and I've always been particularly fascinated by both nearshore and offshore reef and rock formations. Even as a kid driving along the wondrous coastline of Northern California and Oregon, looking for likely places to catch perch and rockfish with my dad, I was absolutely enchanted by rocky promontories. I still am! Not only are they beautiful, but like the dead-fall and lily pads found in fresh water, they are extremely fertile piscatorial habitats. Few things pique my angling imagination more, particularly the reefs and rock formations of tropical zones.

Both nearshore and offshore structure, rocks, pinnacles, reefs and wrecks, above or below the surface are tenements for myriad species from baitfish to big game; the variety is mind-boggling and the challenges worthy of the most ardent saltwater fly-rodder. When casting from a seaworthy boat, action here can often be fast, furious and extremely exciting, providing the angler is properly equipped, has an open, observant mind and was blessed with an inherent spirit of adventure.

Fly fishing saltwater structure is not unlike plying the rocks and submerged ledges of a large river. The ocean is a multiplicity of currents, upwellings, surging waves and undertows. Like river flows, these currents can be the Nemesis of the marine fly-rodder by often making it difficult to present the fly properly. These currents, surges and upwellings tug endlessly at your fly line, trying to defeat it and you must constantly be cognizant of this fact. Arming yourself with the proper equipment and knowing how to use it will often determine the degree of your success. One of the most important pieces of that equipment will be your fly line - most often a super-fast-sinking shooting head.

Shooting heads, particularly the ultra-dense sinkers, have done more to broaden the horizons of saltwater fly anglers than any other tackle development in the recent two decades by allowing them to overcome adverse conditions with regard to distance, depth and current. No longer are we subjugated to the upper levels of the water column when currents are nil and the fish close. These extremely fast-sinking lines, including lead-core densities, have made it possible to seek saltwater fish that were once considered only targets for those slinging hardware or bait - species that dwell among the briny promontories, nearshore and offshore - world-wide.

One of the reasons I love to fish these wondrous places is because of the incredible variety of species I encounter. And, because you never know what kind or size of critter might eat your fly, tackling up with anything lighter than a 10- or 11-weight outfit, is down-right foolish. I've hooked critters on a 12-weight while drifting across a tropical reef that left a whorl on the surface large enough to have been made by a 2-ton, Basalt boulder, before ripping off all my string, cutting me off as it dove into a subterranean cave. Indeed, you may hook a two-pound Blue trevalley on one retrieve only to have a 40-pound amberjack inhale your fly on the next. This is the interesting an exciting dimension of reef fly-rodding - not knowing what fly-eating denizens lurk among the pinnacles.

Noting certain exceptions, most of this kind of fly fishing calls for repeated "blind casting" and selecting 9-foot rods made of graphite III is a wise choice. These sticks have enough muscle to handle the heftiest critters, yet they're light enough not to unduly tire the caster's arm during a day of fishing. Fly rods made of high modulus graphite, are more capable of handling the heavier lines I spoke of which are sometimes neccessary to drag a fly the size of a tennis shoe to the level of the fish. High-speed graphite also provides greater sensitivity, an important asset when considering how many fish inhale a fly on the sink or while it's drifting along in deep, swift currents.

While most reef species will not make exceedingly long runs (they usually try to rock you off in short order), there is always the exception...

I once hooked a big sailfish while scratching the reef top with a fist-sized Sar-Mul-Mac. My fly had descended to about 60 feet before I began an erratic retrieve. Since I had been slamming a variety of snappers, jacks and other reef species, when I set the hook again I fully expected to wrestle with another of these. Was I surprised when, after reefing on the rod a couple of times to bury the hook, the line went slack instead of coming tight as a fiddle string, and a 100 pound-plus sail came blasting out of the water like a Polaris missile, just yards from the boat. Scared the hell out of me! No, I didn't land it because the fly fell out; but I sure could have if it hadn't since I was using a large-diameter, top-end reel with a great drag.

There are lots of superb saltwater fly reels out there and any of the tarpon-sized jobs will suffice. Load them with 250 to 350 yards of 30-pound Dacron backing, 100 feet of shooting line and a 30-foot shooting head. Direct drive reels are fine, but I personally prefer anti-reverse models for serious structure fly-rodding. These provide better control when locking horns with a tough reef critter; and not having to worry about a knuckle-busting handle lets me concentrate on turning a fish from leader-cutting coral or stopping it from an undersea sanctuary.

While there are certain applications for floating lines here, about which I'll cover later, most of this fly fishing will be done with dense, sinking shooting heads, ranging in weight from 350 to 850 grains, depending on the situation.

The shooting line, which is joined to the shooting head via inter-locking, braided monofilament loops, for most circumstances, should be the small diameter, plastic-coated variety, testing around 30-pounds. Several leading fly line manufactures produce a quality shooting line for this task. These lines come in floating, intermediate and sinking densities, the latter to be used for deeper presentations, to around 40 feet.

There are times when you'll need to sink a fly so deep the fish will need head lights to find it; or you'll need to cut quickly through ranging tidal rips. Then, only monofilament shooting line of around 30- or 40-pound test will get the job done because nothing else will sink fast enough.

If you are familiar with the species you will encounter in a given region then your selection of flies may be fairly narrow. A northeast striper devotee may need only a few productive patterns in particular colors and sizes to get the job done. Traveling to unfamiliar terf, though, requires the angler to carry a broader selection. Flies should vary in length, style, conformation and color. Small bucktails less than an inch long may be needed to interest pompano, jacks, blue runners, lady fish, bonito and other lightweights, while large species such as yellowtail, amberjack, snappers, groupers, and others may only show interest in duster-sized flies. And then there's poppers...

Many reef dwellers respond well to the basic "Joe Brooks - style" popper or skipping bug, sizes 1/0 to 3/0; but these will usually be critters smaller in stature and living in the upper layers of the water column. The "Big Moes" of the reef world, however, the trophy-sized snappers, roosterfish, and others will require a popper the size of a small bird to entice them up.

It is often more productive to use teamwork to draw these monsters to the surface. Have the mate or a fishing buddy cast, using hefty spinning gear, a large, hookless teaser (a noisy plug like a "Scudder Plug" or a "Pencil Popper"), over the reef or near the rocks, working it madly back towards the boat. The fly rodder stands ready to cast a big popper (one of the best is Joe Butorac's foam, tube poppers), 4/0 to 7/0, using a big stick and a heavy, 12- to 13-weight, WF floating line (although, these poppers can be effectively cast using a sinking shooting head, since only a surge or two of the popper is usually needed to incite a horrendous strike.) The teasing partner draws the fish into range and the fly-rodder casts the popper, leading the last strike by a few feet. When the teaser reaches the popper, it is yanked from the area and the fly fisherman takes over. When it works a hook-up on fly is usually like - "NOW!".

When taking on this kind of marine environment, the fly angler can expect to encounter several types of structure: protruding rocks, grottos and fast-breaking shoreline reefs, subsurface structure (shallow reefs and wrecks), and raging rips that form around points, through cuts and over shoals.

Surface-piercing rocks can be approached in several ways. You can cast from an anchored boat, provided the sea is calm and safe, with no danger of "sneaker waves", which could swamp small boats. Begin by positioning the boat from 60 to 80 feet from a likely looking rock and slightly up-current of it. While slower sinking shooting heads can be used in shallow, slow-moving water, the fastest sinking lines shine when working the edges of steep formations and are, with rare exception, my first choice. High-density shooting heads ranging in weight from 400 to 550 grains usually get it done, with lead-core lines occasionally being required during peak current.

Saltwater fish hold in the currents much like fresh water fish, some upstream of the rock, some alongside, and the majority downstream of it. Forming an inverted pyramid pattern, the smaller of each species will usually suspend nearer the surface while the broader shoulders will be progressively deeper. Some aggregates of fish will roam randomly, while others, like snappers and groupers, will stake out personal territory.

A first cast directed well up-current of the up-stream side of the rock will permit the line to sink deep before starting a retrieve that will swim the fly down and across, passing just up-tide of the formation (much like one would do if working a large boulder in a river). Small fish use frothy white water to obscure their presence. Likewise, the same froth cloaks a forthcoming attack by a predator. If swells are breaking over the rock (s), churning the down-swell area into a white water froth, be sure to work the white water thoroughly, allowing the fly to drift or suspend in it as long as possible, particularly when species such as stripers are pushing bait against the structure.

Once the up-tide side of the structure has been searched, work the fly straight across, and then slightly down-current until the entire side of the formation has been tested. The last to be explored will be the down-tide area, and to do it properly you may have to reposition the boat.

You should cover that rock like a tent, covering the opposite side in exactly the same manner. Use the count-down method so several areas of the water column can be tested. Larger fish will usually hold deeper, and different species will stage at varying depths. If you're seeking variety you'll have to work the fly accordingly.

If conditions and prudence disallow anchoring the boat, its position will have to be controlled. It can either be held in casting position with the engine until the area has been worked, or you can drift, beginning well up-tide of the formation and casting as the boat slides by. Success here depends on avoiding the need to reposition the boat until the retrieve has been completed. You may only get one cast per drift and if working with a partner, both casts need to be almost simultaneous.

Grottos and rocky coves, particularly those found in tropical regions, are absolutely beautiful, fishy-looking places, and are my favorite beats. Generally these areas are easier for the fly-rodder to explore, since currents and swells are markedly reduced. Accordingly, the boat is easier to position and won't need to be moved as often, enabling you to cover more water from a single position. These places are a delight to fly fish, often providing fast action for a plethora of critters, especially if you stick with fast-sinking shooting heads.

Deeper, submerged reefs and wrecks are usually more difficult to work, offering a greater challenge. Despite adversity, though, I've had some of my greatest fly fishing experiences plying such structure.

Unless I plan to chum to lure deep dwellers to the surface, I rarely anchor over deep reefs and wrecks. Instead I drift (after dropping a brightly colored marker buoy(s) to mark the structure) with wind or tide over the wreck or along the length of the reef, casting all the while. Here's how its done: Strip off 75 to 100 feet of shooting line, make a cast of about 80 feet well down-drift of the boat. Allow the line to sink until the boat first starts to drag it. Precisely then, slip the remainder of the shooting line coiled on the deck through the guides. Doing this stops the boat from dragging the head upward, letting it sink even deeper. When the line begins to drag again, start an erratic retrieve. Be prepared for a wrist-wrenching strike at any time - since many fish will stalk the fly great distances before nailing it - even at the rod tip!

Raging sea rips, those ocean rivers that form around points, through narrows and over shoals, provide another exciting and challenging element for the marine fly fisher. Baitfish swept up in the swirling turbulence of such rips are held helpless, an easy mark for game fish. Fly fishermen who know how to take advantage of these conditions, often score - big time!

While the boat can be anchored in the shallower, slower rips, it is often more productive to use the motor to hold position while casting across the current. Begin by working the up-tide portion of the rip. Cast up and across-current, much like you'd do if river fishing, and allow the line to swing around swimming the fly naturally with the flow, like a helpless bait caught in the torrent. A strike could come at any time. Most often this tactic will score. You may, however, need to pull the fly erratically across the rip sweeping a broad section, after counting it down to the level of holding fish, in order to produce strikes. Fan your casts until you have scoured all the water reachable from your present position. Once satisfied there'll be no more strikes, slip the engine into neutral and drift with the current to a new position, and so one. Sticking a fast fish with shoulders here, will test the talents and gear of the best marine fly-rodder.

Fly fishing the marine wonderland of rocks and reefs may not be for everyone. For those who do love it, though, and who are properly prepared with both the right equipment and a proper attitude, this venue can not only provide hours of enjoyable, challenging sport, it can also be the savior of the best planned excursion to traditional flats or to bluewater for big game, should foul weather or lack of fish spoil original plans. It certainly has for me - on more than one occasion.

Suggestions on Leaders and Flies

When using fast sinking shooting heads, overall leader length should rarely exceed six feet. A two-foot long, 30- to 40-pound-test monofilament butt section should be looped to the braided mono loop on the leader end of the head, being sure they form a square knot. By using a looping system, a leader butt can be quickly changed should it become frayed or cut off on sharp structure. To the butt section, loop on a leader made from abrasion-resistant monofilament fashioned with Bimini-twists at both ends. The Bimini loop joining the butt section should be doubled for extra protection against wear and the length of the leader shouldn't exceed three feet. Depending upon the species encountered, a bite/abrasion trace of either solid wire (for toothy critters) or 30- to 60-pound mono, not to exceed 12 inches is recommended. Attach the fly with a haywire twist when using wire, or with your favorite loop knot, if using mono. See Practical Fishing Knots by Mark Sosin and Lefty Kreh for more detailed information on leader systems for salt water fly fishing.

Some Suggestions on Fly Patterns

An assortment of small, 1- to 1-1/2-inch, simplistic bucktails with a little flash will do for smaller reef species, like jacks, pompano, mackerel, bonito, and others. Blanton's Fatal Attractions, 2 to 2/0 in blue and white and green and white, as well as an assortment of Popovic's Surf Candies, size 2 to 2/0, work well on everything from Blue runners to Rainbow runners and small to medium-sized tuna and bonito. For streamers to entice the heavy-weights, particularly in tropical waters, you might want to include a selection of my Sar-Mul-Macs, 2/0 to 4/0 in anchovy (green and blue versions), sardine, and both blue and green mackerel patterns; a variety of Blanton Flashtail Whistlers, 2/0 to 3/0 and Lefty's Deceivers, same colors and sizes, will work anywhere; and finally, some fist-sized Given's Barred N' Whites, 3/0 to 5/0 and a few good squid patterns, like my Sea Arrow Squid, 3/0 to 4/0, in white, hot pink or salt-and-pepper.

Of course there are dozens of other great saltwater flies that will work marvelously for this kind of angling - check out books like: Salt Water Fly Patterns - Lefty Kreh; Flies For Saltwater - Dick Stewart & Farrow Allen; A Fly-Fisher's Guide To Saltwater Naturals and Their Imitation - George V. Robert's Jr.; and Streamers & Bucktails, the Big Fish Flies - Joseph D. Bates, Jr., just to name a few of the best titles.

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